The Intel Arc B580 and PCIe Slot Size

A few months ago I bought a Intel Arc B580 for the main purpose of getting 8K video going [1]. I had briefly got it working in a test PC but then I wanted to deploy it on my HP z840 that I use as a build server and for playing with ML stuff [2]. I only did brief tests of it previously and this was my first attempt at installing it in a system I use. My plan was to keep the NVidia RTX A2000 in place and run 2 GPUs, that’s not an uncommon desire among people who want to do ML stuff and it’s the type of thing that the z840 is designed for, the machine has slots 2, 4, and 6 being PCIe*16 so it should be able to fit 3 cards that each take 2 slots. So having one full size GPU, the half-height A2000, and a NVMe controller that uses *16 to run four NVMe devices should be easy.

Intel designed the B580 to use every millimeter of space possible while still being able to claim to be a 2 slot card. On the circuit board side there is a plastic cover over the board that takes all the space before the next slot so a 2 slot card can’t go on that side without having it’s airflow blocked. On the other side it takes all the available space so that any card that wants to blow air through can’t fit and also such that a medium size card (such as the card for 4 NVMe devices) would block it’s air flow. So it’s impossible to have a computer with 6 PCIe slots run the B580 as well as 2 other full size *16 cards.

Support for this type of GPU is something vendors like HP should consider when designing workstation class systems. For HP there is no issue of people installing motherboards in random cases (the HP motherboard in question uses proprietary power connectors and won’t even boot with an ATX PSU without significant work). So they could easily design a motherboard and case with a few extra mm of space between pairs of PCIe slots. The cards that are double width are almost always *16 so you could pair up a *16 slot and another slot and have extra space on each side of the pair. I think for most people a system with 6 PCIe slots with a bit of extra space for GPU cooling would be more useful than having 7 PCIe slots. But as HP have full design control they don’t even need to reduce the number of PCIe slots, they could just make the case taller. If they added another 4 slots and increased the case size accordingly it still wouldn’t be particularly tall by the standards of tower cases from the 90s! The z8 series of workstations are the biggest workstations that HP sells so they should design them to do these things. At the time that the z840 was new there was a lot of ML work being done and HP was selling them as ML workstations, they should have known how people would use them and design them accordingly.

So I removed the NVidia card and decided to run the system with just the Arc card, things should have been fine but Intel designed the card to be as high as possible and put the power connector on top. This prevented installing the baffle for directing air flow over the PCIe slots and due to the design of the z840 (which is either ingenious or stupid depending on your point of view) the baffle is needed to secure the PCIe cards in place. So now all the PCIe cards are just secured by friction in the slots, this isn’t an unusual situation for machines I assemble but it’s not something I desired.

This is the first time I’ve felt compelled to write a blog post reviewing a product before even getting it working. But the physical design of the B580 is outrageously impractical unless you are designing your entire computer around the GPU.

As an aside the B580 does look very nice. The plastic surround is very fancy, it’s a pity that it interferes with the operation of the rest of the system.

7

Leaf ZE1

I’ve just got a second hand Nissan LEAF. It’s not nearly as luxurious as the Genesis EV that I test drove [1]. It’s also just over 5 years old so it’s not as slick as the MG4 I test drove [2]. But the going rate for a LEAF of that age is $17,000 vs $35,000 or more for a new MG4 or $130,000+ for a Genesis. At this time the LEAF is the only EV in Australia that’s available on the second hand market in quantity. Apparently the cheapest new EV in Australia is a Great Wall one which is $32,000 and which had a wait list last time I checked, so $17,000 is a decent price if you want an electric car and aren’t interested in paying the price of a new car.

Starting the Car

One thing I don’t like about most recent cars (petrol as well as electric) is that they needlessly break traditions of car design. Inserting a key and turning it clockwise to start a car is a long standing tradition that shouldn’t be broken without a good reason. With the use of traditional keys you know that when a car has the key removed it can’t be operated, there’s no situation of the person with the key walking away and leaving the car driveable and there’s no possibility of the owner driving somewhere without the key and then being unable to start it. To start a LEAF you have to have the key fob device in range, hold down the brake pedal, and then press the power button. To turn on accessories you do the same but without holding down the brake pedal. They also have patterns of pushes, push twice to turn it on, push three times to turn it off. This is all a lot easier with a key where you can just rotate it as many clicks as needed.

The change of car design for the key means that no physical contact is needed to unlock the car. If someone stands by a car fiddling with the door lock it will get noticed which deters certain types of crime. If a potential thief can sit in a nearby car to try attack methods and only walk to the target vehicle once it’s unlocked it makes the crime a lot easier. Even if the electronic key is as secure as a physical key allowing attempts to unlock remotely weakens security. Reports on forums suggest that the electronic key is vulnerable to replay attacks. I guess I just have to hope that as car thieves typically get less than 10% of the value of a car it’s just not worth their effort to steal a $17,000 car. Unlocking doors remotely is a common feature that’s been around for a while but starting a car without a key being physically inserted is a new thing.

Other Features

The headlights turn on automatically when the car thinks that the level of ambient light warrants it. There is an option to override this to turn on lights but no option to force the lights to be off. So if you have your car in the “on” state while parked the headlights will be on even if you are parked and listening to the radio.

The LEAF has a bunch of luxury features which seem a bit ridiculous like seat warmers. It also has a heated steering wheel which has turned out to be a good option for me as I have problems with my hands getting cold. According to the My Nissan LEAF Forum the seat warmer uses a maximum of 50W per seat while the car heater uses a minimum of 250W [3]. So if there are one or two people in the car then significantly less power is used by just heating the seats and also keeping the car air cool reduces window fog.

The Bluetooth audio support works well. I’ve done hands free calls and used it for playing music from my phone. This is the first car I’ve owned with Bluetooth support. It also has line-in which might have had some use in 2019 but is becoming increasingly useless as phones with Bluetooth become more popular. It has support for two devices connecting via Bluetooth at the same time which could be handy if you wanted to watch movies on a laptop or tablet while waiting for someone.

The LEAF has some of the newer safety features, it tracks lane markers and notifies the driver via beeps and vibration if they stray from their lane. It also tries to read speed limit signs and display the last observed speed limit on the dash display. It also has a skid alert which in my experience goes off under hard acceleration when it’s not skidding but doesn’t go off if you lose grip when cornering. The features for detecting changing lanes when close to other cars and for emergency braking when another car is partly in the lane (even if moving out of the lane) don’t seem well tuned for Australian driving, the common trend on Australian roads is lawful-evil to use DND terminology.

Range

My most recent driving was just over 2 hours driving with a distance of a bit over 100Km which took the battery from 62% to 14%. So it looks like I can drive a bit over 200Km at an average speed of 50Km/h. I have been unable to find out the battery size for my car, my model will have either a 40KWh or 62KWh battery. Google results say it should be printed on the B pillar (it’s not) and that it can be deduced from the VIN (it can’t). I’m guessing that my car is the cheaper option which is supposed to do 240Km when new which means that a bit over 200Km at an average speed of 50Km/h when 6yo is about what’s expected. If it has the larger battery designed to do 340Km then doing 200Km in real use would be rather disappointing.

Assuming the battery is 40KWh that means it’s 5Km/KWh or 10KW average for the duration. That means that the 250W or so used by the car heater should only make a about 2% difference to range which is something that a human won’t usually notice. If I was to drive to another state I’d definitely avoid using the heater or airconditioner as an extra 4km could really matter when trying to find a place to charge when you aren’t familiar with the area. It’s also widely reported that the LEAF is less efficient at highway speeds which is an extra difficulty for that.

It seems that the LEAF just isn’t designed for interstate driving in Australia, it would be fine for driving between provinces of the Netherlands as it’s difficult to drive for 200km without leaving that country. Driving 700km to another city in a car with 200km range would mean charging 3 times along the way, that’s 2 hours of charging time when using fast chargers. This isn’t a problem at all as the average household in Australia has 1.8 cars and the battery electric vehicles only comprise 6.3% of the market. So if a household had a LEAF and a Prius they could just use the Prius for interstate driving. A recent Prius could drive from Melbourne to Canberra or Adelaide without refuelling on the way.

If I was driving to another state a couple of times a year I could rent an old fashioned car to do that and still be saving money when compared to buying petrol all the time.

Running Cost

Currently I’m paying about $0.28 per KWh for electricity, it’s reported that the efficiency of charging a LEAF is as low as 83% with the best efficiency when fast charging. I don’t own the fast charge hardware and don’t plan to install it as that would require getting a replacement of the connection to my home from the street, a new switchboard, and other expenses. So I expect I’ll be getting 83% efficiency when charging which means 48KWh for 200KM or 96KWH for the equivalent of a $110 tank of petrol. At $0.28/KWh it will cost $26 for the same amount of driving as $110 of petrol. I also anticipate saving money on service as there’s no need for engine oil changes and all the other maintenance of a petrol engine and regenerative braking will reduce the incidence of brake pad replacement.

I expect to save over $1100 per annum on using electricity instead of petrol even if I pay the full rate. But if I charge my car in the middle of the day when there is over supply and I don’t get paid for feeding electricity from my solar panels into the grid (as is common nowadays) it could be almost free to charge the car and I could save about $1500 on fuel.

Comfort

Electric cars are much quieter than cars with petrol or Diesel engines which is a major luxury feature. This car is also significantly newer than any other car I’ve driven much so it has features like Bluetooth audio which weren’t in other cars I’ve driven. When doing 100Km/h I can hear a lot of noise from the airflow, part of that would be due to the LEAF not having the extreme streamlining features that are associated with Teslas (such as retracting door handles) and part of that would be due to the car being older and the door seals not being as good as they were when new. It’s still a very quiet car with a very smooth ride. It would be nice if they used the quality of seals and soundproofing that VW uses in the Passat but I guess the car would be heavier and have a shorter range if they did that.

This car has less space for the driver than any other car I’ve driven (with the possible exception of a 1989 Ford Laser AKA Mazda 323). The front seats have less space than the Prius. Also the batteries seem to be under the front seats so there’s a bulge in the floor going slightly in front of the front seats when they are moved back which gives less space for the front passenger to move their legs and less space for the driver when sitting in a parked car. There are a selection of electric cars from MG, BYD, and Great Wall that have more space in the front seats, if those cars were on the second hand market I might have made a different choice but a second hand LEAF is the only option for a cheap electric car in Australia now.

The heated steering wheel and heated seats took a bit of getting used to but I have come to appreciate the steering wheel and the heated seats are a good way of extending the range of the car.

Misc Notes

The LEAF is a fun car to drive and being quiet is a luxury feature, it’s no different to other EVs in this regard. It isn’t nearly as fast as a Tesla, but is faster than most cars actually drive on the road.

When I was looking into buying a LEAF from one of the car sales sites I was looking at models less than 5 years old. But the ZR1 series went from 2017 to 2023 so there’s probably not much difference between a 2019 model and a 2021 model but there is a significant price difference. I didn’t deliberately choose a 2019 car, it was what a relative was selling at a time when I needed a new car. But knowing what I know now I’d probably look at that age of LEAF if choosing from the car sales sites.

Problems

When I turn the car off the side mirrors fold in but when I turn it on they usually don’t automatically unfold if I have anything connected to the cigarette lighter power port. This is a well known problem and documented on forums. This is something that Nissan really should have tested before release because phone chargers that connect to the car cigarette lighter port have been common for at least 6 years before my car was manufactured and at least 4 years before the ZE1 model was released.

The built in USB port doesn’t supply enough power to match the power use of a Galaxy Note 9 running Google maps and playing music through Bluetooth. On it’s own this isn’t a big deal but combined with the mirror issue of using a charger in the cigarette lighter port it’s a problem.

The cover over the charging ports doesn’t seem to lock easily enough, I had it come open when doing 100Km/h on a freeway. This wasn’t a big deal but as the cover opens in a suicide-door manner at a higher speed it could have broken off.

The word is that LEAF service in Australia is not done well. Why do you need regular service of an electric car anyway? For petrol and Diesel cars it’s engine oil replacement that makes it necessary to have regular service. Surely you can just drive it until either the brakes squeak or the tires seem worn.

I have been having problems charging, sometimes it will charge from ~20% to 100% in under 24 hours, sometimes in 14+ hours it only gets to 30%.

Conclusion

This is a good car and the going price on them is low. I generally recommend them as long as you aren’t really big and aren’t too worried about the poor security.

It’s a fun car to drive even with a few annoying things like the mirrors not automatically extending on start.

The older ones like this are cheap enough that they should be able to cover the entire purchase cost in 10 years by the savings from not buying petrol even if you don’t drive a lot. With a petrol car I use about 13 tanks of petrol a year so my driving is about half the average for Australia. Some people could cover the purchase price of a second hand leaf in under 5 years.

Last Post About the Yoga Gen3

Just over a year ago I bought myself a Thinkpad Yoga Gen 3 [1]. That is a nice machine and I really enjoyed using it. But a few months ago it started crashing and would often play some music on boot. The music is a diagnostic code that can be interpreted by the Lenovo Android app. Often the music translated to “code 0284 TCG-compliant functionality-related error” which suggests a motherboard problem. So I bought a new motherboard.

The system still crashes with the new motherboard. It seems to only crash when on battery so that indicates that it might be a power issue causing the crashes. I configured the BIOS to disable the TPM and that avoided the TCG messages and tunes on boot but it still crashes.

An additional problem is that the design of the Yoga series is that the keys retract when the system is opened past 180 degrees and when the lid is closed. After the motherboard replacement about half the keys don’t retract which means that they will damage the screen more when the lid is closed (the screen was already damaged from the keys when I bought it).

I think that spending more money on trying to fix this would be a waste. So I’ll use it as a test machine and I might give it to a relative who needs a portable computer to be used when on power only.

For the moment I’m back to the Thinkpad X1 Carbon Gen 5 [2]. Hopefully the latest kernel changes to zswap and the changes to Chrome to suspend unused tabs will make up for more RAM use in other areas. Currently it seems to be giving decent performance with 8G of RAM and I usually don’t notice any difference from the Yoga Gen 3.

Now I’m considering getting a Thinkpad X1 Carbon Extreme with a 4K display. But they seem a bit expensive at the moment. Currently there’s only one on ebay Australia for $1200ono.

HP z840

Many PCs with DDR4 RAM have started going cheap on ebay recently. I don’t know how much of that is due to Windows 11 hardware requirements and how much is people replacing DDR4 systems with DDR5 systems.

I recently bought a z840 system on ebay, it’s much like the z640 that I recently made my workstation [1] but is designed strictly as a 2 CPU system. The z640 can run with 2 CPUs if you have a special expansion board for a second CPU which is very expensive on eBay and and which doesn’t appear to have good airflow potential for cooling. The z840 also has a slightly larger case which supports more DIMM sockets and allows better cooling.

The z640 and z840 take the same CPUs if you use the E5-2xxx series of CPU that is designed for running in 2-CPU mode. The z840 runs DDR4 RAM at 2400 as opposed to 2133 for the z640 for reasons that are not explained. The z840 has more PCIe slots which includes 4*16x slots that support bifurcation.

The z840 that I have has the HP Z-Cooler [2] installed. The coolers are mounted on a 45 degree angle (the model depicted at the right top of the first page of that PDF) and the system has a CPU shroud with fans that mount exactly on top of the CPU heatsinks and duct the hot air out without going over other parts. The technology of the z840 cooling is very impressive. When running two E5-2699A CPUs which are listed as “145W typical TDP” with all 44 cores in use the system is very quiet. It’s noticeably louder than the z640 but is definitely fine to have at your desk. In a typical office you probably wouldn’t hear it when it’s running full bore. If I was to have one desktop PC or server in my home the z840 would definitely be the machine I choose for that.

I decided to make the z840 a build server to share the resource with friends and to use for group coding projects. I often have friends visit with laptops to work on FOSS stuff and a 44 core build server is very useful for that.

The system is by far the fastest system I’ve ever owned even though I don’t have fast storage for it yet. But 256G of RAM allows enough caching that storage speed doesn’t matter too much.

Here is building the SE Linux “refpolicy” package on the z640 with E5-2696 v3 CPU and the z840 with two E5-2699A v4 CPUs:

257.10user 47.18system 1:40.21elapsed 303%CPU (0avgtext+0avgdata 416408maxresident)k
66904inputs+1519912outputs (74major+8154395minor)pagefaults 0swaps

222.15user 24.17system 1:13.80elapsed 333%CPU (0avgtext+0avgdata 416192maxresident)k
5416inputs+0outputs (64major+8030451minor)pagefaults 0swaps

Here is building Warzone2100 on the z640 and the z840:

6887.71user 178.72system 16:15.09elapsed 724%CPU (0avgtext+0avgdata 1682160maxresident)k
1555480inputs+8918768outputs (114major+27133734minor)pagefaults 0swaps

6055.96user 77.05system 8:00.20elapsed 1277%CPU (0avgtext+0avgdata 1682100maxresident)k
117640inputs+0outputs (46major+11460968minor)pagefaults 0swaps

It seems that the refpolicy package can’t use many more than 18 cores as it is only 37% faster when building with 44 cores available. Building Warzone is slightly more than twice as fast so it can really use all the available cores. According to Passmark the E5-2699A v4 is 22% faster than the E5-2696 v3.

I highly recommend buying a z640 or z840 if you see one at a good price.

More About the HP ML110 Gen9 and z640

In May 2021 I bought a ML110 Gen9 to use as a deskside workstation [1]. I started writing this post in April 2022 when it had been my main workstation for almost a year. While this post was in a draft state in Feb 2023 I upgraded it to an 18 core E5-2696 v3 CPU [2]. It’s now March 2025 and I have replaced it.

Hardware Issues

My previous state with this was not having adequate cooling to allow it to boot and not having a PCIe power cable for a video card. As an experiment I connected the CPU fan to the PCIe fan power and discovered that all power and monitoring wires for the CPU and PCIe fans are identical. This allowed me to buy a CPU fan which was cheaper ($26.09 including postage) and easier to obtain than a PCIe fan (presumably due to CPU fans being more commonly used and manufactured in larger quantities). I had to be creative in attaching the CPU fan as it’s cable wasn’t long enough to reach the usual location for a PCIe fan. The PCIe fan also required a baffle to direct the air to the right place which annoyingly HP apparently doesn’t ship with the low end servers, so I made one from a Corn Flakes packet and duct tape.

The Wikipedia page listing AMD GPUs lists many newer ones that draw less than 80W and don’t need a PCIe power cable. I ordered a Radeon RX560 4G video card which cost $246.75. It only uses 8 lanes of PCIe but that’s enough for me, the only 3D game I play is Warzone 2100 which works well at 4K resolution on that card. It would be really annoying if I had to just spend $246.75 to get the system working, but I had another system in need of a better video card which had a PCIe power cable so the effective cost was small. I think of it as upgrading 2 systems for $123 each.

The operation of the PCIe video card was a little different than non-server systems. The built in VGA card displayed the hardware status at the start and then kept displaying that after the system had transitioned to PCIe video. This could be handy in some situations if you know what it’s doing but was confusing initially.

Booting

One insidious problem is that when booting in “legacy” mode the boot process takes an unreasonably long time and often hangs, the UEFI implementation on this system seems much more reliable and also supports booting from NVMe.

Even with UEFI the boot process on this system was slow. Also the early stage of the power on process involves fans being off and the power light flickering which leads you to think that it’s not booting and needs to have the power button pressed again – which turns it off. The Dell power on sequence of turning most LEDs on and instantly running the fans at high speed leaves no room for misunderstanding. This is also something that companies making electric cars could address. When turning on a machine you should never be left wondering if it is actually on.

Noise

This was always a noisy system. When I upgraded the CPU from an 8 core with 85W “typical TDP” to an 18 core with 145W “typical TDP” it became even louder. Then over time as dust accumulated inside the machine it became louder still until it was annoyingly loud outside the room when all 18 cores were busy.

Replacement

I recently blogged about options for getting 8K video to work on Linux [3]. This requires PCIe power which the z640s have (all the ones I have seen have it I don’t know if all that HP made have it) and which the cheaper models in the ML-110 line don’t have. Since then I have ordered an Intel Arc card which apparently has 190W TDP. There are adaptors to provide PCIe power from SATA or SAS power which I could have used, but having a E5-2696 v3 CPU that draws 145W [4] and a GPU that draws 190W [4] in a system with a 350W PSU doesn’t seem viable.

I replaced it with one of the HP z640 workstations I got in 2023 [5].

The current configuration of the z640 has 3*32G RDIMMs compared to the ML110 having 8*32G, going from 256G to 96G is a significant decrease but most tasks run well enough like that. A limitation of the z640 is that when run with a single CPU it only has 4 DIMM slots which gives a maximum of 512G if you get 128G LRDIMMs, but as all DDR4 DIMMs larger than 32G are unreasonably expensive at this time the practical limit is 128G (which costs about $120AU). In this case I have 96G because the system I’m using has a motherboard problem which makes the fourth DIMM slot unusable. Currently my desire to get more than 96G of RAM is less than my desire to avoid swapping CPUs.

At this time I’m not certain that I will make my main workstation the one that talks to an 8K display. But I really want to keep my options open and there are other benefits.

The z640 boots faster. It supports PCIe bifurcation (with a recent BIOS) so I now have 4 NVMe devices in a single PCIe slot. It is very quiet, the difference is shocking. I initially found it disconcertingly quiet.

The biggest problem with the z640 is having only 4 DIMM sockets and the particular one I’m using has a problem limiting it to 3. Another problem with the z640 when compared to the ML110 Gen9 is that it runs the RAM at 2133 while the ML110 runs it at 2400, that’s a significant performance reduction. But the benefits outweigh the disadvantages.

Conclusion

I have no regrets about buying the ML-110. It was the only DDR4 ECC system that was in the price range I wanted at the time. If I knew that the z640 systems would run so quietly then I might have replaced it earlier. But it was only late last year that 32G DIMMs became affordable, before then I had 8*16G DIMMs to give 128G because I had some issues of programs running out of memory when I had less.

Hisense 65U80G 65″ Inch 8K ULED Android TV (2021)

The Aim

I just bought a Hisense 65U80G 65″ Inch 8K ULED Android TV (2021 model) for $1,568 including delivery. I got that deal by googling refurbished 8K TVs and finding the cheapest one I could buy. Amazon and eBay didn’t have any good prices on second hand 8K TVs and new ones start at $3,000 on special. I didn’t assess how Hisense compares to other TVs, as far as I could determine there was only one model of 8K TV on sale in Australia in the price range I was prepared to pay. So I won’t review how this TV compares to other models but how refurbished TVs compare to other display options.

I bought this because the highest resolution monitor in my price range is 5120*2160 [1]. While I could get a 5128*2880 monitor for around $1,500 paying 3* the money for 33% more pixels is bad value for money. Getting 4* the pixels for under 3* the price is good value even when it’s a TV with the lower display quality that involves.

Before buying this TV I read this blog post by Daniel Lawrence about using an 8K TV as a primary monitor [2]. While he has an interesting setup with a 65″ TV on a large desk it’s not what I plan to do at this time.

My Plans for Use

I don’t plan to make it a main monitor. While 5120*2160 isn’t as good as I like on my desk it’s bearable and the quality of the display is high. High resolution isn’t needed for all tasks, for example I’m writing this blog post on my laptop while watching a movie on the 8K TV.

One thing I’d like to do with the 8K TV when I get it working as a monitor is to share the screen for team programming projects. I don’t have any specific plans other than team coding projects at the moment. But it will be interesting to experiment with it when I get it working.

Technical Issues with High Resolution Monitors

Hardware Needed

A lot of the graphic hardware out there don’t support resolutions higher than 5120*2880. It seems that most laptops don’t support resolutions higher than that and higher resolutions than 4K are difficult. Only quite recent and high end video cards will do 8K. Apparently the RTX 2080 is one of the oldest ones that does and that’s $400 on ebay. Strangely the GPU chipset spec pages don’t list the maximum resolution and there’s the additional complication that the other chips might not support the resolutions that the GPU itself can support.

As an aside I don’t use NVidia cards for regular workstations due to reliability problems. But they are good for ML work and for special purpose systems.

Interface Versions

To do 8K video it seems that you need HDMI 2.1 (or maybe 2.0 with 4:2:0 chroma subsampling) or DisplayPort 1.3 for 30Hz with 24bit color and 2.0 for higher refresh rates. But using a particular version of the interface doesn’t require supporting all the resolutions that it might support. This TV has HDMI 2.1 inputs, I’ve bought an adaptor cable that does DisplayPort 1.4 to HDMI 2.1 at 8K resolution. So I need a video card that does DisplayPort 1.4 or HDMI 2.1 output. That doesn’t mean that the card will work, but it could work.

It’s a pity that no-one has made a USB-C video controller that has a basic frame-buffer supporting 8K and the minimal GPU capabilities. The consensus of opinion is that no games will run well at 8K at this time so anyone using 8K resolution doesn’t need GPU power unless it’s for ML stuff.

I’m thinking of making a system that can be used as a ML server and X/Wayland server so a GPU with a decent amount of RAM and compute power would be good. I’m not particularly interested in spending $1,500+ to get a GPU that can drive a $1,568 TV. I’m looking into getting a RTX A2000 with 12G of RAM which should be adequate for ML experiments and can handle 8K@60Hz output.

I’ve ordered a DisplayPort to HDMI converter cable so if I get a DisplayPort card it will work.

Software Support

When I first got started with 4K monitors I had significant problems in adjusting the UI to be usable. The support for scaling software is much better now than it was then and 8K 65″ has a lower DPI than 4K 32″. So I hope this won’t be an issue.

Progress So Far

My first Hisense 8K TV stopped working properly. It would change to a mostly white screen after being used for some time. The screen would change in ways that correlate to changes in what should appear, but not in a way that was usable. It was just a different pattern of white blobs when I changed to a menu view not anything that allowed using it. I presume that this was the problem that drove a need for refurbishment as when I first got the TV it was still signed in to Google accounts for YouTube and to NetFlix.

Best Buy Electrical was good about providing a quick replacement, they took away the old TV and delivered a new one on the same visit and it’s now working well.

I’ve obtained a NVidia card that can allegedly do 8K output and a combination of cables that might be able to carry an 8K signal. Now I just need to get the NVidia drivers to not cause a kernel panic to get things to work.

More About the Yoga Gen3

Two months ago I bought a Thinkpad X1 Yoga Gen3 [1]. I’m still very happy with it, the screen is a great improvement over the FullHD screen on my previous Thinkpad. I have yet to discover what’s the best resolution to have on a laptop if price isn’t an issue, but it’s at least 1440p for a 14″ display, that’s 210DPI. The latest Thinkpad X1 Yoga is the 7th gen and has up to 3840*2400 resolution on the internal display for 323DPI. Apple apparently uses the term “Retina Display” to mean something in the range of 250DPI to 300DPI, so my current laptop is below “Retina” while the most expensive new Thinkpads are above it.

I did some tests on external displays and found that this Thinkpad along with a Dell Latitude of the same form factor and about the same age can only handle one 4K display on a Thunderbolt dock and one on HDMI. On Reddit u/Carlioso1234 pointed out this specs page which says it supports a maximum of 3 displays including the built in TFT [2]. The Thunderbolt/USB-C connection has a maximum resolution of 5120*2880 and the HDMI port has a maximum of 4K. The latest Yoga can support four displays total which means 2*5K over Thunderbolt and one 4K over HDMI. It would be nice if someone made a 8000*2880 ultrawide display that looked like 2*5K displays when connected via Thunderbolt. It would also be nice if someone made a 32″ 5K display, currently they all seem to be 27″ and I’ve found that even for 4K resolution 32″ is better than 27″.

With the typical configuration of Linux and the BIOS the Yoga Gen3 will have it’s touch screen stop working after suspend. I have confirmed this for stylus use but as the finger-touch functionality is broken I couldn’t confirm that. On r/thinkpad u/p9k told me how to fix this problem [3]. I had to set the BIOS to Win 10 Sleep aka Hybrid sleep and then put the following in /etc/systemd/system/thinkpad-wakeup-config.service :

# https://www.reddit.com/r/thinkpad/comments/1blpy20/comment/kw7se2l/?context=3

[Unit]
Description=Workarounds for sleep wakeup source for Thinkpad X1 Yoga 3
After=sysinit.target
After=systemd-modules-load.service

[Service]
Type=oneshot
ExecStart=/bin/sh -c "echo 'enabled' > /sys/devices/platform/i8042/serio0/power/wakeup"
ExecStart=/bin/sh -c "echo 'enabled' > /sys/devices/platform/i8042/serio1/power/wakeup"
ExecStart=/bin/sh -c "echo 'LID' > /proc/acpi/wakeup"

[Install]
WantedBy=multi-user.target

Now it works fine, for stylus at least. I still get kernel error messages like the following which don’t seem to cause problems:

wacom 0003:056A:5146.0005: wacom_idleprox_timeout: tool appears to be hung in-prox. forcing it out.

When it wasn’t working I got the above but also kernel error messages like:

wacom 0003:056A:5146.0005: wacom_wac_queue_insert: kfifo has filled, starting to drop events

This change affected the way suspend etc operate. Now when I connect the laptop to power it will leave suspend mode. I’ve configured KDE to suspend when the lid is closed and there’s no monitor connected.

1

MG4 Review

In the past I haven’t had a high opinion of MG cars, decades ago they were small and expensive and didn’t seem to offer anything I wanted. As there’s a conveniently located MG dealer I decided to try out an MG electric car and see if they are any good. I brought two friends along who are also interested in new technology.

I went to the MG dealer without any preconceptions or much prior knowledge of the MG electric cars apart from having vaguely noticed that they were significantly cheaper than Teslas. I told the salesperson that I didn’t have a model in mind and I just wanted to see what MG offers, so they offered me a test driver of a “MG4 64 EXCITE”. The MG web site isn’t very good and doesn’t give an indication of what this model costs, my recollection is that it’s something like $40,000, the base model is advertised at $30,990. I’m not particularly interested in paying for extras above the base model and the only really desirable feature that the “Excite 64” offers over the “Excite 51” is the extra range (the numbers 51 and 64 represent the battery capacity in KWh). The base model has a claimed range of 350KM which is more than I drive in a typical week, generally there are only about 4 days a year when I need to drive more than 300KM in a day and on those rare days I can spend a bit of time at a charging station without much inconvenience.

The experience of driving an MG4 is not much different from other EVs I’ve driven, the difference between that and the Genesis GV60 (which was advertised at $117,000) [1] isn’t significant. The Genesis has some nice camera features giving views from all directions and showing a view of the side on the dash when you put your turn indicator on. Also some models of Genesis (not the one I test drove) have cameras instead of side mirrors. The MG4 lacks most of those cameras but has a very effective reversing camera which estimates the distance to an “obstacle” behind you in cm. Some of the MG electric cars have a sunroof or moonroof (sunroof that just opens to transparent glass not open to the air), the one I tested didn’t have them and I didn’t feel I was missing much. While a moonroof is a nice feature I probably won’t want to pay as much extra as they will demand for it.

The dash of the MG4 doesn’t have any simulation of the old fashioned dash unlike the Genesis GV60 which had a display in the same location as is traditionally used which displays analogue instruments (except when the turn indicators are on). The MG4 has two tablets, a big one in the middle of the front for controlling heating/cooling and probably other things like the radio and a small one visible through the steering wheel which has the instruments. I didn’t have to think about the instruments, they just did the job which is great.

For second hand cars I looked at AutoTrader which seems to be the only Australian site for second hand cars that allows specifying electric as a search criteria [2]. For the EVs advertised on that site the cheapest are around $13,000 for cars about 10 years old and $21,000 for a 5yo LEAF. If you could only afford to spend $21,000 on a car then a 5yo LEAF would definitely be better than nothing, but when comparing a 5yo car for $21,000 and a new car for $31,000 the new car is the obvious choice if you can afford it. There was an Australian company importing used LEAFs and other EVs and selling them over the web for low prices, if they were still around and still selling LEAFs for $15,000 then that would make LEAF vs MG3 a difficult decision for me. But with the current prices for second hand LEAFs the decision is easy.

When I enrolled for the test drive the dealer took my email address and sent me an automated message with details about the test drive and an email address to ask for more information. The email address they used bounced all mail, even from my gmail account. They had a contact form on their web site but that also doesn’t get a response. MG really should periodically test their dealer’s email addresses, they are probably losing sales because of this.

On the same day I visited a Hyundai dealer to see what they had to offer. A salesman there said that the cheapest Hyundai was $60,000 and suggested that I go elsewhere if I am prepared to buy a lesser car to save money. I don’t need to get negged by a car dealer and I really don’t think there’s much scope for a car to be significantly better than the MG3 while also not competing with the Genesis cars. Genesis is a Hyundai brand and their cars are very nice, but the prices are well outside the range I’m prepared to pay.

Next I have to try the BYD. From what I’ve heard they are mostly selling somewhat expensive cars in Australia (a colleague recently got one which was about $60,000 which he is extremely happy with) but hopefully they have some of the cheaper ones available too. I don’t want to flex on my neighbors, I just want a reliable and moderately comfortable car that doesn’t cost too much.

The PiKVM

Hardware

I have just setup a PiKVM, here’s the Amazon link for the KVM hardware (case and Pi hat etc) and here’s an Amazon link for a Pi4 to match.

The PiKVM web site has good documentation [1] and they have a YouTube channel with videos showing how to assemble the devices [2]. It’s really convenient being able to change the playback speed from low speeds like 1/4 original speed) to double speed when watching such a video. One thing to note is that there are some revisions to the hardware that aren’t covered in the videos, the device I received had some improvements that made it easier to assemble which weren’t in the video.

When you buy the device and Pi you need to also get a SD card of at least 4G in size, a CR1220 battery for real-time clock, and a USB-2/3 to USB-C cable for keyboard/mouse MUST NOT BE USB-C to USB-C! When I first tried using it I used a USB-C to USB-C cable for keyboard and mouse and it didn’t work for reasons I don’t understand (I welcome comments with theories about this). You also need a micro-HDMI to HDMI cable to get video output if you want to set it up without having to find the IP address and ssh to it.

The system has a bright OLED display to show the IP address and some other information which is very handy.

The hardware is easy enough for a 12yo to setup. The construction of the parts are solid and well engineered with everything fitting together nicely. It has a PCI/PCIe slot adaptor for controlling power and sending LED status over the connection which I didn’t test. I definitely recommend this.

Software

This is the download link for the RaspberryPi images for the PiKVM [3]. The “v3” image matches the hardware from the Amazon link I provided.

The default username/password is root/root. Connect it to a HDMI monitor and USB keyboard to change the password etc. If you control the DHCP server you can find the IP address it’s using and ssh to it to change the password (it is configured to allow ssh as root with password authentication).

If you get the kit to assemble it (as opposed to buying a completed unit already assembled) then you need to run the following commands as root to enable the OLED display. This means that after assembling it you can’t get the IP address without plugging in a monitor with a micro-HDMI to HDMI cable or having access to the DHCP server logs.

rw
systemctl enable --now kvmd-oled kvmd-oled-reboot kvmd-oled-shutdown
systemctl enable --now kvmd-fan
ro

The default webadmin username/password is admin/admin.

To change the passwords run the following commands:

rw
kvmd-htpasswd set admin
passwd root
ro

It is configured to have the root filesystem mounted read-only which is something I thought had gone out of fashion decades ago. I don’t think that modern versions of the Ext3/4 drivers are going to corrupt your filesystem if you have it mounted read-write when you reboot.

By default it uses a self-signed SSL certificate so with a Chrome based browser you get an error when you connect where you have to select “advanced” and then tell it to proceed regardless. I presume you could use the DNS method of Certbot authentication to get a SSL certificate to use on an internal view of your DNS to make it work normally with SSL.

The web based software has all the features you expect from a KVM. It shows the screen in any resolution up to 1920*1080 and proxies keyboard and mouse. Strangely “lsusb” on the machine being managed only reports a single USB device entry for it which covers both keyboard and mouse.

Managing Computers

For a tower PC disconnect any regular monitor(s) and connect a HDMI port to the HDMI input on the KVM. Connect a regular USB port (not USB-C) to the “OTG” port on the KVM, then it should all just work.

For a laptop connect the HDMI port to the HDMI input on the KVM. Connect a regular USB port (not USB-C) to the “OTG” port on the KVM. Then boot it up and press Fn-F8 for Dell, Fn-F7 for Lenovo or whatever the vendor code is to switch display output to HDMI during the BIOS initialisation, then Linux will follow the BIOS and send all output to the HDMI port for the early stages of booting. Apparently Lenovo systems have the Fn key mapped in the BIOS so an external keyboard could be used to switch between display outputs, but the PiKVM software doesn’t appear to support that. For other systems (probably including the Dell laptops that interest me) the Fn key apparently can’t be simulated externally. So for using this to work on laptops in another city I need to have someone local press Fn-F8 at the right time to allow me to change BIOS settings.

It is possible to configure the Linux kernel to mirror display to external HDMI and an internal laptop screen. But this doesn’t seem useful to me as the use cases for this device don’t require that. If you are using it for a server that doesn’t have iDRAC/ILO or other management hardware there will be no other “monitor” and all the output will go through the only connected HDMI device. My main use for it in the near future will be for supporting remote laptops, when Linux has a problem on boot as an easier option than talking someone through Linux commands and for such use it will be a temporary thing and not something that is desired all the time.

For the gdm3 login program you can copy the .config/monitors.xml file from a GNOME user session to the gdm home directory to keep the monitor settings. This configuration option is decent for the case where a fixed set of monitors are used but not so great if your requirement is “display a login screen on anything that’s available”. Is there an xdm type program in Debian/Ubuntu that supports this by default or with easy reconfiguration?

Conclusion

The PiKVM is a well engineered and designed product that does what’s expected at a low price. There are lots of minor issues with using it which aren’t the fault of the developers but are due to historical decisions in the design of BIOS and Linux software. We need to change the Linux software in question and lobby hardware vendors for BIOS improvements.

The feature for connecting to an ATX PSU was unexpected and could be really handy for some people, it’s not something I have an immediate use for but is something I could possibly use in future. I like the way they shipped the hardware for it as part of the package giving the user choices about how they use it, many vendors would make it an optional extra that costs another $100. This gives the PiKVM more functionality than many devices that are much more expensive.

The web UI wasn’t as user friendly as it might have been, but it’s a lot better than iDRAC so I don’t have a serious complaint about it. It would be nice if there was an option for creating macros for keyboard scancodes so I could try and emulate the Fn options and keys for volume control on systems that support it.

Kogan AX1800 Wifi6 Mesh

I previously blogged about the difficulties in getting a good Wifi mesh network setup [1].

I bought the Kogan AX1800 Wifi6 Mesh with 3 nodes for $140, the price has now dropped to $130. It’s only Wifi 6 (not 6E which has the extra 6GHz frequency) because all the 6E ones were more expensive than I felt like paying.

I’ve got it running and it’s working really well. One of my laptops has a damaged wire connecting to it’s Wifi device which decreased the signal to a degree that I could usually only connect to wifi when in the computer room (and then walk with it to another room once connected). Now I can connect that laptop to wifi in any part of my home. I can now get decent wifi access in my car in front of my home which covers the important corner case of walking to my car and then immediately asking Google maps for directions. Previously my phone would be deciding whether to switch away from wifi due to poor signal and that would delay getting directions, now I get directions quickly on Google Maps.

I’ve done tests with the Speedtest.net Android app and now get speeds of about 52Mbit/17Mbit in all parts of my home which is limited only by the speed of my NBN connection (one of the many reasons for hating conservatives is giving us expensive slow Internet). As my main reason for buying the devices is for Internet access they have clearly met my reason for purchase and probably meet the requirements for most people as well. Getting that speed is not trivial, my neighbours have lots of Wifi APs and bandwidth is congested. My Kogan 4K Android TV now plays 4K Netflix without pausing even though it only supports 2.4GHz wifi, so having a wifi mesh node next to the TV seems to help it.

I did some tests with the Olive Tree FTP server on a Galaxy Note 9 phone running the stock Samsung Android and got over 10MByte (80Mbit) upload and 8Mbyte (64Mbit) download speeds. This might be limited by the Android app or might be limited by the older version of Android. But it still gives higher speeds than my home Internet connection and much higher speeds than I need from an Android device.

Running iperf on Linux laptops talking to a Linux workstation that’s wired to the main mesh node I get speeds of 27.5Mbit from an old laptop on 2.4GHz wifi, 398Mbit from a new Wifi5 laptop when near the main mesh node, and 91Mbit from the same laptop when at the far end of my home. So not as fast as I’d like but still acceptable speeds.

The claims about Wifi 6 vs Wifi 5 speeds are that 6 will be about 3* faster. That would be 20% faster than the Gigabit ethernet ports on the wifi nodes. So while 2.5Gbit ethernet on Wifi 6 APs would be a good feature to have it seems that it might provide a 20% benefit at some future time when I have laptops with Wifi 6. At this time all the devices with 2.5Gbit ethernet cost more than I wanted to pay so I’m happy with this. It will probably be quite a while before laptops with Wifi 6 are in the price range I feel like paying.

For Wifi 6E it seems that anything less than 2.5Gbit ethernet will be a significant bottleneck. But I expect that by the time I buy a Wifi 6E mesh they will all have 2.5Gbit ethernet as standard.

The configuration of this device was quite easy via the built in web pages, everything worked pretty much as I expected and I hardly had to look at the manual. The mesh nodes are supposed to connect to each other when you press hardware buttons but that didn’t work for me so I used the web admin page to tell them to connect which worked perfectly. The admin of this seemed to be about as good as it gets.

Conclusion

The performance of this mesh hardware is quite decent. I can’t know for sure if it’s good or bad because performance really depends on what interference there is. But using this means that for me the Internet connection is now the main bottleneck for all parts of my home and I think it’s quite likely that most people in Australia who buy it will find the same result.

So for everyone in Australia who doesn’t have fiber to their home this seems like an ideal set of mesh hardware. It’s cheap, easy to setup, has no cloud stuff to break your configuration, gives quite adequate speed, and generally just does the job.